Vienna 2019
The kids and I have escaped building works at our house (knocking down walls!) and set off for Vienna. My family is there, and we have my late grandmother's flat to stay in.
The Journey
Flying with two little ones by myself... Could have been disastrous but actually they were good as gold. Amazingly so! I managed to get them through security, through the airport, to the airplane and they even stayed in their seats the entire time! (Sometimes standing on them, but let's not split hairs here.)
Arriving we were met by my sister A and my uncle, and arrived at our temporary home within half an hour. The kids, N in particular, absolutely adored their new "Opa H" - my uncle - and I managed to sort the place out to make it somewhat habitable and reasonably child safe as they played with him.
Neither kid had a nap so we're in bed before 7 (local time - home time is 6pm!) and they're ready to call it a night. So am I .
Oh, and someone lent us a potty that starts playing music as soon as a wee hits! N jumped off it so quick I thought she'd hit the roof! That'll be interesting in the night....
Day 2
If there's one thing I think all parents will agree on, it's that 4 and 2 year olds are busy creatures. They don't sit still, they don't hang about. When you're in a flat where you know your every move is a potential issue, anything broken or even touched might cause an argument, it's best to get the curious-about-everything lot out of there.
And that's exactly what we did today.
First thing in the morning we checked out the local playground. The sun was out, though it was very cold, and fun was had for about an hour.
When they were tired of the cold we went to buy a travel card for the week (all public transport in any of Vienna for a week: €18! Take note UK!) and then groceries.
After naptime we decided to make use of that travel card and went on a bus and then the underground! That was quite the adventure for them. We emerged from beneath the ground just at the foot of St. Stephen's Cathedral, which we did go into briefly but the kids weren't fans as there was both real fire (candles) and the place was very dark.... so we ventured outside to chase pigeons on the square, meet some Fiaker horses and marvel at the snow.
Back home, my sister A joined us for a lovely dinner and then we called it a night.
Day 3
This was largely a day of play.
It's still very cold outside and the kids aren't used to it, so we went to an "indoor playground" - soft play as we would call it - which was huge and, incredibly, free of charge on Tuesday mornings! They had so much fun there.
In the afternoon we went to the playground outside the house again, we were all by ourselves as no sane Austrians would be out in this cold! But again, fun was had for about an hour and then we went to the library around the corner.
This particular library branch was over 50% children's books so had a lovely reading corner, where I did my best to entertain the two whirlwinds.... D mostly wasn't interested in the stories and just wanted to look at books by himself. Fine with me. Of course this boy doesn't sit on chairs but squats on the floor, also fine with me - until we were told off by the librarian for letting books touch the floor! (Really.)
Never mind. We made it home with a bit of crying from cold and tiredness (D), had dinner, and from the way he looks he's heading for an early night!
## Day 4
I'm beginning to think the kids won't learn a word of German here. We've met mums and kids at playgroup this morning, and a few parents and kids at the swimming pool this afternoon, and as soon as my kids uttered an English word the Austrians immediately switched to English! Argh!
Playgroup this morning was a lovely experience as they're really used to that kind of environment and had lots of fun. D playing, mostly on his own, and N going from baby to baby to coo over them.
We went home for lunch and nap. Because in this flat there are so many things off limits to the kids I've probably threatened a few times too often that "Michaela will be cross at you if you touch this!" because D now says all the time: "Mrs Hayla will be cross at me!" - oops!
Again we spent the afternoon out: at the local swimming pool that's just a few bus stops away. I remember this from my childhood and it hasn't changed a bit! Gorgeous art deco place. I couldn't take photos inside but got the kids to pose in the lobby after the swim.
Day 5
Another day, another playgroup. This time in a lovely large and clean space which we all enjoyed, except that not one adult spoke to me. Maybe I look like I don't want to talk? But whatever, I'm there for the kids sake so I'll probably try it again.
Going there meant taking the bus and then the subway, which the kids really enjoy - they're so good at keeping safe, taking my hand when asked etc.
In the afternoon we travelled again, this time to meet their "Vienna Granny" - there's a service that connects pensioners with young children for babysitting and I'm thinking this is ideal for a couple of hours a week while we're here. The granny doesn't speak much English, and I'll be able to run errands and wash laundry in the communal laundry room downstairs which I don't really want the kids to roam in. So we met her today, she's got a 4 year old grandchild of her own and has lots of toys, playground outside etc. and of course the kids immediately took to her and didn't want to leave! This will be really helpful to me next week.
Lastly, D's shoes finally gave up the ghost - or rather, the Velcro on them. It just wouldn't stick any more and they opened up as he walked, which he found very irritating. So we bought him some brand new boots that were heavily reduced to €12 - this boy, being second born in a family where pretty much everything we own is second hand already, doesn't own anything I can think of that he's had from new. He was so chuffed with them!
## Day 6
Somehow today felt thoroughly routine. We're now well used to using public transport, and went to yet another playgroup. One where I actually got to exchange a few words (few!) with a couple of mums.
The boy is in the process of dropping his nap and today he refused to nap, so I decided to stay close to home in the afternoon as he was bound to be moody. Good thing too because he was!
We managed to have some fun at the playground, and as it's Friday we made sure to have our traditional chip treat, but even that only kept them happy for a very short while. We decided to go back home and have a bit of time in the huge bathtub - and that was a big hit before bedtime!
Day 7
If yesterday felt a bit "routine", today brought some new adventures. First thing in the morning we went for another swim at Amalienbad, after which I met up with - for the first time in person - a lovely Facebook friend who met me and brought all the "exotic" vegan ingredients I'd been doing without because I didn't know where to look!
As I was catching up with her the kids had some fun at the playground. But it was freezing cold - we even found a solid frozen puddle!
After nap time, my sister A arrived and we went to play at the park. Found a massive climbing tree, which we followed with a bit of playground fun, when we noticed a bridal party in the park taking wedding pictures. D spotted the bride first and shouted: "A ghost!!"
Unfortunately we finished our time at the playground with a massive faceplant on concrete. Ouch. Right in the middle of N's forehead!
Now we're staying at my sister's place overnight. The wood fire is a major attraction.
Day 8
What a wonderful day, it's 9pm and the kids are only just eating their dinner and I'm still reeling from the awesome time at 4Corners. Not only is it incredible once again to see God at work on Vienna, but also for me personally it was a much needed time of connecting deeply with God in worship again.
And the kids loved it! They danced so hard, it was brilliant to watch.
But that was this evening, and I didn't take any photos there. This morning of course we woke up at A's place, and went to a local playground by the lake. Both the playground and the lake were big hits, despite the freezing cold - which didn't even stop them from waddling into the freezing lake and getting their feet thoroughly soaked! They were fascinated to throw little rocks on the water and see them slide along the ice.
Back at A's, my uncle H arrived at lunchtime and N in particular was delighted. She has unreservedly given him her heart.
Another highlight was seeing my cousin's son M again whom I hadn't seen since before I got married!
Day 10
Didn't write yesterday as we didn't do much except playgroup... but today we're in double digits of our stay! Quite a few things are becoming routine by now, although of course there's still something new to be experienced every day. But since the means of getting places is becoming familiar now - bus, tram or subway - the kids are feeling more at ease I think. Although N still says, after every journey, "I really hope I get to go on this [bus/tram/subway] again soon!" which I think is very sweet.
This morning was so cold, it was a real shock to the system. -7 degrees! And our morning plan involved a bit of walking from the station to the soft play, so I knew enough to take a sling along for D. That was a good idea. But N became very distressed indeed as we walked, we had no choice but to plod on and by the time we arrived she was absolutely in pieces, sobbing. I thank God for our amazing friend from the local church who had offered to lend us a buggy, and brought it along to soft play! The way home was so much easier as N was happy being pushed in the buggy.
For the afternoon I had done a bit of research and found a special (small) desert themed zoo that's part of the greater Vienna zoo, but separate entry. I wasn't about to take the kids through a zoo in these temperatures but this was indoors and necessarily kept warm. And it was fun! We saw exotic birds (flying around freely!), lizards, rodents, tortoises, snakes and bugs. And I held my hands into a tank with doctor fish in, which felt amazing! But the kids didn't muster up the courage to try.
We had fantastic company there, as we'd arranged to go with a new friend N made at church on Sunday. He and she had great fun dancing together then and she just took an instant, and deep, like to him (he's a little older than her dad, not a kid!!). So I had invited him to come along to the zoo and he did - and it was great for me as well to have a bit of adult conversation as we went through. I've been with the kids, and only the kids, so much! And I love it, but having grown up conversations is wonderful every now and then. ...
My sister A joined us for dinner and that ends our first day in the double digits. Good night!
Day 11
Not many photos to share today because the kids spent the afternoon at Vienna Granny's while I bought groceries and had a shower. Bliss! Unfortunately she misunderstood where we were going to meet up afterwards and so we each waited for half an hour at different subway stations, before she returned home and called me. I was so worried!! How did we cope before mobiles??
Apart from that though the kids had a wonderful time. However I'm not sure I'll do this again because it's not cheap, €10/hour... we'll see.
Anyway, in the morning we were at a playgroup again and I'm becoming a more familiar face there now so am actually having a few conversations. And D is really getting into jigsaws now!
Day 12
If we thought our days were busy, going out to do things every day both mornings and afternoons, then today really upped the ante: we did three things!
The morning saw us at the same playgroup as we visited last Thursday, and lo and behold, a few people said hi to me. Maybe they're just all really wary of strangers?
I was very proud of N today as she chose to colour in a balloon, held the pencil correctly (!!) and wrote her name on the paper, before cutting it out so we could hang it in the window.
And then we got home for D's nap. He doesn't always nap these days, but today he did. After lunch we set off across Vienna to the other side of the city because my aunt M had arranged for us to attend a clay workshop there, but as that didn't start until 5pm we stopped at a play cafe for a couple of hours.
The clay workshop was such fun! A small group (7 people) of all ages and abilities, just individually exploring the medium of clay in a really relaxed way. The kids enjoyed cutting, rolling, piercing it and N created the most intricate hedgehogs with random items stuck in them!
Day 13
I'm in bed at the end of another very full day and I'm having trouble trying you remember what we did today...! I will admit I'm getting pretty tired of all the running around, but the kids are so wonderful to be around. I have to say that. They are little, and that does entail hard work, but I'm amazed on a daily basis at just how much I enjoy them. Not just love them, but enjoy their company, laugh with them, watch them with delight!
It's come back to me now: this morning we went to another play cafe. This was really quite small and geared towards babies, but N was happy enough meeting various babies and playing with them. D found a few jigsaws to try.
Because it was my cousin E's birthday we were going to meet her after work for a quick celebration, a pretty long and arduous journey but we hadn't seen her since D was a baby! So as we had to wait until 5.30pm when she finished work, and keeping in mind that playgrounds are unbearable as it's well below freezing, we filled the afternoon with a soft play session.
Finally we saw E to wish her a happy birthday. But not until after the kids had their obligatory Friday chips, today at Burger King.
Now by the time we had coffee, the kids were really starting to get quite tired and we only left there at their normal bedtime, but had yet to make the one-hour journey on bus, subway, train, and bus again... we finally made it to bed just after 8.30pm.
And we have a return date!! I've just booked to go back on 10th February.
Day 14
I really have been running myself ragged lately and this morning we relished the opportunity to just take it slow. A leisurely breakfast followed by a short stroll in the park (it was snowing!), grocery shopping, and a long bath at home.
Joined by my sister A for the afternoon, we visited the Museum of Natural History - a huge, historic collection of all kinds of natural artefacts, many of which are over 100 years old. I remember many, many visits to this place when I was a child... and so many of the exhibits were exactly the same then. All sorts of animals from all over the world... you could spend hours in there, which of course we weren't able to do with the kids. But they did enjoy it, even if they did keep their distance from some of the larger animals - the sea cow, tigers and huge spider crab particularly.
But of course there was a whole other floor below the animals ... that was the dinosaurs! That section had an update since my childhood visits: there is now a full size, moving, roaring raptor! Both kids were absolutely terrified. And fascinated. N wanted to stay there indefinitely whereas D couldn't wait to get away from it!
Day 15
This morning we set out with my sister A once again, and on our quest to find indoor things to do as it's still quite cold we came across the Butterfly House. A small but amazing greenhouse in the heart of Vienna where all sorts of butterflies fly freely. One landed on a lollipop a lady was carrying, she gave it to N, and the butterfly then flew right in her face!
Interesting though it was, this visit didn't quite fill our morning so we travelled home slowly, stopping to look at the nearby buildings and chasing some pigeons by the bus stop.
In the afternoon of course we were at church again, kids enjoying the worship before going up to Sunday school. Where they had some sort of a horse theme. Great fun was had!
Day 16
This day I have looked forward to ever since I booked the flight to Vienna: catching up with the couple who loved me into Jesus. Well, actually one of them was in England today so it was just one friend, but it was wonderful catching up with her. And my kids played with her kids and we ate chocolate cake and we just felt at home so easily.
These guys loved me at a time when I didn't even know how to receive love, let alone do it. They accepted me as I was, and they put the first cracks into the walls I had built around myself. They'll forever have a very special place in my heart.
And it's both fun and humbling to go back to see them whenever I can, because they are among the very few people who've witnessed the changes in me. I'm not the person I was, my entire personality and who I am is totally unrecognisable if you knew me at age 20! They understand what kind of miracle it is that I have a healthy and loving marriage, that I have kids and am loving it... none of this would have been remotely possible if Jesus hadn't completely turned my life around. And it was this couple who showed me what love could be like.
The rest of the day was pretty much routine, we attended the usual Monday playgroup - it was fun going there in the snow but it turned out N's shoes were leaking, so we decided it was time for new shoes for her as well.
Day 17
What a gorgeous day we had today! Bright sunshine, blue sky, not too cold, but still some remnants of snow around. I had planned indoor activities and that was what we did, but I really hope the weather stays this way so we can go to the zoo sometime.
This morning though we went to soft play again. Fun times, smoothies, happy kids.
This afternoon we met our friend F and went to Palmenhaus together. The kids quite enjoyed running around the place and finding goldfish in the ponds but it didn't hold their attention for long so we went out and took a walk through the Schönbrunn grounds as dusk fell. It was gorgeous, but the kids had way too much fun splashing in puddles and snow, resulting in cold wet feet and legs so the journey home was... challenging. They'll definitely sleep well tonight!
Day 19
Another average day yesterday, nothing to write home about. Today once again we attended the Thursday morning playgroup. This is by far the toughest to get any interaction with the adults, and I did spend long stretches on my own - resisting the temptation to get the phone out and get a bit of socialising through social media - but here and there I exchanged a few words with various ladies. Better than nothing, and the kids like it there; also it's free and there's coffee and snacks.
On our way home, the kids were a bit tired but still well behaved. We didn't get a seat with good views so N started kneeling on a seat to see outside. That's when the old lady sitting behind us got involved - complaining about dirty seats, kids not sitting still, overwhelmed mothers who don't care.... in typical Viennese passive aggressive fashion she wasn't talking to me, she was talking about me but in a way that I should hear and feel condemned.
Oh well. The kids didn't even notice. I ignored her. And was glad that our stop was coming up.
I do try to let these things bounce off my back - similar to the telling off we had when I answered a video call on the bus - but these incidents do all feed into a certain baseline stress and worry about doing wrong. Being judged. This is not a child friendly place, and it's noticeable in a million small ways as well as big; even walking along, one small child holding each of my hands, I get people walking up behind and stepping past right in front of the kids so they trip, or get hit in the head by that person's bag - they just don't care.
There are occasional kindness exceptions - mostly by foreigners! - but in general I feel unwelcome here.
For the afternoon we had found yet another play cafe that yet again turned out to be for very small kids. I'm so glad that N is a gentle soul and plays nicely with babies! We did stay through the session but won't go back. The kids had a reasonable time there though.
As there was still quite a bit of time left before bedtime I decided a bath was a good idea. And it was, until D had a total meltdown (over literally nothing) which distressed N so I ended up with two screaming children. Rough times. I'm as ready for bed as they are now! Good night, dear readers.
Day 20
Yesterday was a tough day even though the main events were just play and more play. Today the itinerary was similar, but I'm going to bed happy and relaxed (as are the kids).
We spent the morning at play at a by now very familiar place - we go every Monday and Friday afternoon - which is staffed by the same people each time who know us by now. Today there were also a few mums I know from the Wednesday playgroup (which is just around the corner from this one) so I was able to largely chat the morning away as the kids played.
In the afternoon my sister met us at a train station (using the kids' favourite type of train, the regional "Schnellbahn" - German for "fast train" - which D insists on calling "smell bahn") and took us to a friend of hers who has two similarly aged kids, for a playdate.
Everyone had lots of fun and we've discovered a piece of technology called a Toniebox which they both absolutely adored. It's a kid friendly mp3 player that plays stories and songs according to which figure you put on top of it. Because it can only do German I'm thinking we can justify that expense if the kids start listening to German audio books. ...!
On our way home we picked up chips at McDonald's for our usual Friday treat. A lovely day!
Day 21
What a fantastic day. We're all totally shattered!
My sister A had got me a special offer at the Bikram Yoga place she goes to. I've never done Bikram before (the difference is that it's done in a REALLY hot room). So while A looked after the kids and took them to the playground, I had a solid 90 minutes of... well not relaxation as such, because it was hard and sweaty, but time to focus on myself without the kids in tow was amazing.
It was a small, really personal and friendly studio which I loved, but in all honesty I don't think the heat aspect is for me! The sweat was unreal... and afterwards there were 4 showers in the ladies changing rooms, all together in one wetroom, without any barriers or curtains. Just 4 showers in a room. Typical Austrian thing, nobody thinks twice about it, but I think I've been in the UK too long to feel completely comfortable with that!
Coming out from yoga we just had lunch and drove to my cousin S's place, about an hour. Enough time for the kids to nap in the car.
S is my youngest cousin and she has a 14-year-old daughter (who we just saw briefly on her way out to the cinema) as well as a 4.5 year old daughter, who was around to play. And play they did! From legos to cars to playing with the beach ball globe I gave the little girl, they ran around until they literally couldn't run any more. And somehow, in between being hit with the ball and fielding calls of "mama!" and various squeals and shouts, we managed to catch up a bit. Which was wonderful.
Day 22
We had a day of special treats today. First thing in the morning we went to the bakers at the corner and bought croissants to eat at the playground. The baker (a foreigner, not Viennese of course) kindly gave each of the children a biscuit, which they loved! It was fun eating our croissants and playing at the same time....
Before long, my sister A arrived to take N away for a special adventure: to visit a working smallholding where a friend had invited her for lunch! She got to feed goats, pat horses and made a special friend in the family dog.
Meanwhile I spent the day with D alone and decided, despite the cold, to visit a place I haven't been in decades. It's a public park, with ponds and playgrounds and special gardens, and also goats and sheep to pat! My grandmother would take me there a lot when I was little, and I was amazed to recognise lots of sites and features. After 30 years!! So it was very special for me. D's favourite thing was probably feeding the ducks, I had remembered to take bread along and he loved feeding it to the ducks and one crow that joined in.
A then delivered N to church and the special treat for me there was to hear the entire preach, given by the husband in the couple I mentioned on a previous day - from start to finish, while the kids were in the kids work. It was exactly what I needed to hear, too. God is so good.
And now the countdown is really ON! This was our last Sunday at church because at this time next week we're flying home!!
Day 24
Nothing special to write about yesterday. The usual Thursday playgroup (yes , the unfriendly one) was our destination again today because it's half term and we had no choice... it does seem to improve, though. I did manage to have a couple of friendly exchanges, as well as a long and repetitive chat with a lovely lady with a learning disability. I also used my time sitting around by myself - coloured in my very own picture!
For the afternoon, I really needed some time to do the laundry and have a shower, so the kids got to go to Vienna Granny again. They'd been asking to see her so much - they've clearly decided they love her! Tearing them away after saying goodbye was really hard as N did understand we probably wouldn't see her again.
Day 26
Skipped another day yesterday. We're really counting down the sleeps now! N in particular is well aware how soon we'll be home again, and we all cannot wait!
The kids are well again today, although N did take a nap at midday which she never does; but apart from that they were both happy all day.
We said goodbye to the unfriendly playgroup - as it happens, today was the best visit yet for me as I had lots of conversations with lots of mums! That's how it goes I guess: we're familiar faces there now so people are beginning to thaw a bit. Oh well....
After our nap - we all napped! - we visited a friend from church who has a nearly-nearly-toddling baby, where I got to sit and drink coffee over a real, adult conversation.... that was wonderful.
Back home we finished the evening with a lovely bath and everyone's off to bed happy.
Day 27
Our final weekday, our final playgroup... we're all really ready to go home now. The playgroup was as routine as ever and for me a bit of an anticlimax as again I spoke to nobody. Oh well.
Again both kids had a nap, and neither wanted to get out of bed after! I knew I had to tire them out somehow but going on public transport for half an hour to attend an overrun play space (it's half term here so I knew any place would be heaving) - I just couldn't face it. So we just went downstairs and to the park. It was the busiest I'd seen it yet but the kids managed to play and release some energy. In N's case mostly negative energy: she spent a lot of time crying hysterically about various things. This tells me she still isn't well....
To finish on a happier note, I treated them to pizza for dinner.
Day 28
We went to the amazing, huge Vienna Zoo today. Incredibly I did recognise quite a few habitats/ buildings from when I was little but it's infinitely better now, it was pretty overwhelming. We didn't see the half of it, although the kids did have fun seeing elephants, giraffes, polar bears and penguins, big cats.... the list goes on. The hardest thing was moving them on from one thing to the next!
I didn't take that many photos as I was on my own with them and the zoo was very busy. It was cold and a lot of walking in the fresh air was involved so we're all finished tonight.
Home Time
I didn't write yesterday because I was utterly finished by the time we finally got to bed; and today is the first home day. I've unpacked, began to tackle (a little bit of the immense amount of) the dust from the building works, and am sitting down for a breather of five minutes before the blessings return from their grandparents.
God, I have missed home. Missed family, missed friends, missed my husband most of all - but home is even more than all those.
Home is a place where I feel welcome, where I feel my children are welcomed - even by strangers. A place where people randomly smile at us, have a chat, ask how we are. Where my neighbour says hello and welcome back.
I find I really do have to decompress and get comfortable again! The best I can describe the way I felt in Vienna is, oppressed. It's an oppressive environment; at all times with kids I'm on edge about disturbing others, expecting to be told to make them shut up and be invisible... it actually happened only rarely but the looks, the demonstrative sighs, the eyerolling was constant. And it impacted on my relationship with my kids - instead of enjoying the moment with them I'd be shutting them up, hushing them, telling them to stop being kids.
It's so good to be home, where I can breathe out.